Filicudi and Alicudi are the most western islands of the archipelago and, not surprisingly, also the least frequented by tourists.
Covering just nine square kilometres, Filicudi is formed by a group of craters covered by typical Mediterranean vegetation: capers grow wild all over the island, amidst the scent of wild fennel, mint and oregano. There are three villages, with a smattering of restaurants, but the best way to explore is to rent a boat or scooter so that you can access the small pebbly beaches and clear water. For spectacular views over the neighbouring islands, make tracks for the Fossa delle Felci, the island’s mountain which is best explored with the assistance of a guide.
Smaller than neighbouring Filicudi, Alicudi is also more remote, with approximately half of the island uninhabited and navigable only by donkey. A pebbly beach and brightly coloured fishing boats greet visitors to the island’s port and from here, footpaths and trails lead up the island’s 675m high heather-carpeted volcanic cone.